Stick welding requires skill

1. What are the most common stick electrodes?

Hundreds, if not thousands, of stick electrodes exist, but the most popular are mild steel electrodes, which fall into the American Welding Society (AWS) classification A5.1. These include the 6010, 6011, 6012, 6013, 7014, 7024 and 7018 electrodes.

6010 electrodes deliver deep penetration and have the ability to “dig” through rust, oil, paint or dirt, making them popular among pipe welders.

2. What do AWS stick electrode classifications mean?

To help identify stick electrodes, the AWS uses a standardized coding system. Codes take the form of numbers and letters printed on the side of each stick electrode, and each represents specific electrode properties.

For the mild steel electrodes mentioned above, here is how the AWS system works:

• The letter “E” indicates an electrode.

• The first two digits represent the resulting weld’s minimum tensile strength, measured in pounds per square inch (psi). For example, the number 70 in a E7018 electrode indicates that the electrode will produce a weld bead with a minimum tensile strength of 70,000 psi.

• The third digit represents the welding position(s) for which the electrode can be used. For example, 1 means the electrode can be used in all positions and 2 means it can be used on flat and horizontal fillet welds only.

• The fourth digit represents the coating type and the type of welding current (AC, DC or both) that can be used with the electrode.

7018 electrodes produce strong welds with high impact properties and can be used on high strength steel base metals.

3. What are the differences between 6010, 6011, 6012 and 6013 electrodes and when should they be used?

• 6010 electrodes can only be used with direct current (DC) power sources. They deliver deep penetration and have the ability to dig through rust, oil, paint and dirt. Many experienced pipe welders use these all-position electrodes for root welding passes on a pipe. However, 6010 electrodes feature an extremely tight arc, which can make them difficult for novice welders to use.

• 6011 electrodes can also be used for all-position welding using an alternating current (AC) welding power source. Like 6010 electrodes, 6011 electrodes produce a deep, penetrating arc that cuts through corroded or unclean metals. Many welders choose 6011 electrodes for maintenance and repair work when a DC power source is unavailable.

• 6012 electrodes work well in applications that require gap bridging between two joints. Many professional welders also choose 6012 electrodes for high-speed, high-current fillet welds in the horizontal position, but these electrodes tend to produce a shallower penetration profile and dense slag that will require additional post-weld cleaning.

• 6013 electrodes produce a soft arc with minimal spatter, offer moderate penetration and have an easily-removable slag. These electrodes should only be used to weld clean, new sheet metal.

4. What are the differences between 7014, 7018 and 7024 electrodes and when should they be used?

• 7014 electrodes produce about the same joint penetration as 6012 electrodes and are designed for use on carbon and low-alloy steels. 7014 electrodes contain a higher amount of iron powder, which increases deposition rate. They can also be used at higher amperages than 6012 electrodes.

• 7018 electrodes contain a thick flux with high powder content and are one of the easiest electrodes to use. These electrodes produce a smooth, quiet arc with minimal spatter and medium arc penetration. Many welders use 7018 electrodes to weld thick metals such as structural steel. 7018 electrodes also produce strong welds with high impact properties (even in cold weather) and can be used on carbon steel, high-carbon, low-alloy or high-strength steel base metals.

• 7024 electrodes contain a high amount of iron powder that helps increase deposition rates. Many welders use 7024 electrodes for high-speed horizontal or flat fillet welds. These electrodes perform well on steel plate that is at least 1/4-inch thick. They can also be used on metals that measure over 1/2-inch thick.

5. How do I choose a stick electrode?

First, select a stick electrode that matches the base metal strength properties and composition. For example, when working on mild steel, generally any E60 or E70 electrode will work.

Next, match the electrode type to your welding position and consider your available power source. Remember certain electrodes can only be used with DC or AC, while other electrodes can be used with both DC and AC.

You will also want to assess the joint design and fit-up you need and select an electrode that will provide the best penetration characteristics (digging, medium or light). If you are working on a joint with tight fit-up or one that is not beveled, electrodes such as E6010 or E6011 will provide digging arcs to ensure sufficient penetration. For thin materials or joints with wide root openings, select an electrode with a light or soft arc such as an E6013.

To avoid weld cracking on thick, heavy material and/or complicated joint designs, select an electrode with maximum ductility. Also consider the service condition the component will encounter and the specifications it must meet. Will it be used in a low temperature, high temperature or shock-loading environment? For these applications, a low hydrogen E7018 electrode works well.

You should also consider the production efficiency. When working in the flat position, electrodes with a high iron powder content, such as such E7014 or E7024, offer higher deposition rates.

For critical applications, always check the welding specification and procedures for the electrode type.

6. What function does the flux surrounding a stick electrode serve?

All stick electrodes consist of a wire surrounded by a coating called flux, which serves several important purposes. It is actually the flux, or the covering, on the electrode that dictates where and how an electrode can be used.

When you strike an arc, the flux burns and produces a series of complex chemical reactions. As the flux ingredients burn in the welding arc, they release shielding gas to protect the molten weld pool from atmospheric impurities. When the weld pool cools, the flux forms slag to protect the weld metal from oxidation and prevent porosity in the weld bead.

Flux also contains ionizing elements that make the arc more stable (especially when welding with an AC power source), along with alloys that give the weld its ductility and tensile strength.

Some electrodes use flux with a higher concentration of iron powder to help increase deposition rates, while others contain added deoxidizers that act as cleaning agents and have the ability to penetrate corroded or dirty workpieces or mill scale.

7. When should I use a high deposition stick electrode?

High deposition rate electrodes can help complete a job faster, but these electrodes have limitations. The additional iron powder in these electrodes makes the weld pool much more fluid, meaning that high deposition electrodes can’t be used in out-of-position applications.

They also cannot be used for critical or code-required applications, such as pressure vessel or boiler fabrication, where weld beads are subject to high stresses.

High deposition electrodes, however, are an excellent choice for non-critical applications, such as welding a simple liquid storage tank or two pieces of non-structural metal together.

8. What is the proper way to store and re-dry stick electrodes?

A heated, low humidity environment is the best storage environment for stick electrodes. For example, many mild steel, low hydrogen 7018 electrodes need to be stored at a temperature between 250 and 300 degrees Fahrenheit.

Generally, electrodes’ reconditioning temperatures are higher than the storage temperature, to help eliminate excess moisture. To recondition the low hydrogen 7018 electrodes discussed above, the reconditioning environment ranges from 500 to 800 degrees for one to two hours.

Some electrodes, like 6011s, only need to be stored “dry at room temperature,” which is defined as humidity levels not exceeding 70 percent at a temperature between 40 and 120 degrees.

For specific storage and reconditioning times and temperatures, always refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

The construction industry is extremely diverse, and some of the trades don’t feature welding as a core competency in their day-to-day work. However, whether you own one piece of equipment or 100, that equipment is going to break and it’s likely you’ll have to make a weld or two to get it back up and running—or maybe you have some downtime and want to reinforce areas that you know are prone to damage. This article looks specifically at your material and equipment options for making Stick welding repairs in the field.

Stick Welding and Electrode Selection

One of the most common processes for field welding repair is Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW), or Stick. Stick electrodes are self-shielded and cut down on the amount of equipment needed—no need to haul in a gas cylinder, hose and regulator. It also provides adequate protection of the weld bead in outdoor applications where wind interferes with shielding gases. It’s important to note that Flux Cored (FCAW) welding is also a great option for field repair, but for the sake of this article we will focus on Stick, which is more accessible to many contractors.

Choosing the correct replacement/filler material is critical to all field repair applications. All material should be replaced with one that meets or exceeds the strength of the parent material. Each application varies in mechanical properties such as required strength, ductility, wear resistance, impact strength, and tensile strength. An exact material match ensures weld quality and longevity, and avoids premature failure and unwanted downtime.

Common electrodes used in Stick welding are 6010, 6011, 6013, 7018 and 7024 with the most common diameters ranging from 1/8- to 5/32-in. Each of these electrodes offers all-position welding capabilities (except 7024). The first two digits of a stick electrode represent the “as welded” minimum tensile strength: 6010 provides 60,000 psi tensile strength, for instance. The third digit represents the acceptable welding positions for each electrode (1 = all positions, 2 = flat or horizontal only, 3 = flat, horizontal, vertical down and overhead). The fourth digit refers to the coating type and the type of welding current (alternating current (AC)/direct current (DC)) that can be used with the electrode. Here’s a brief rundown of each electrode typically found in this application (courtesy of Hobart Brothers):

6010: All position electrode only suitable with DC power sources. It delivers deep penetration and has the ability to dig through rust, oil, paint and dirt. This electrode features an extremely tight arc, which can make it difficult for inexperienced welders. Excellent for penetration on joints with a tight fit-up.

6011: All position electrode for use with AC and DC power sources. It produces a deep, penetrating arc that cuts through corroded and unclean metals – ideal for maintenance and repair. Excellent for penetration on joints with a tight fit-up.

6013: All position electrode with a soft arc and minimal spatter, moderate penetration and easily removable slag. Suitable with AC or DC power sources, this electrode is better served on newer and clean materials, thinner materials and wide root openings.

7018: All position electrode with a thick flux and high iron powder content, which makes it one of the easiest electrodes to use. These electrodes produce a smooth, quiet arc with minimal spatter and medium arc penetration. Produces strong welds with high impact properties (even in cold weather) and can be used on carbon steel, high-carbon, low-alloy and high-strength steel base metals. Suitable with AC and DC power sources.

7024: For flat or horizontal welding with an AC or DC power source, this electrode contains a high iron powder content that helps increase deposition rates. Performs well on steel plate that is at least ¼-in. thick and can be used on metals that measure over ½ in.

Welding Equipment Selection

Selecting the right machine for Stick welding is based largely on the diameter of electrodes used. A 1/8-in. electrode welds up to 145 amps, while a 5/32-in. electrode offers optimal performance at about 180 amps. Therefore, a welding generator with a 100 percent duty cycle at 250 amps (Miller’s Bobcat™ 250) offers enough welding power to meet most Stick welding needs.

Contractor’s Note: For heavy-duty repairs and space savings on maintenance trucks, contractors should consider a combination welder/generator/air compressor. These machines not only feature welders and generators, but also include self-contained rotary screw air compressors for running air tools and plasma cutters. The Trailblazer 302 Air Pak, for instance, offers 26 CFM of air (up to 160 PSI) at 100 percent duty cycle. This machine also has a battery jump/charge option built in, to give field mechanics another tool to combat idle equipment.

Preparation of the Weld Joint

Once you’ve obtained the right filler metal alloy and welding machine, cut the steel to its required size and bevel the edges at a 30-degree angle for better welding penetration. For heavier sections of material it is recommended to leave a small face or “land” at the bottom of the joint. This can be done, after having beveled your edges, by grinding along the surface until the bottom portion is about the thickness of a nickel.

Cleanliness of the welding joint is critical. While some welding electrodes are more forgiving than others, it’s never wise to leave any contaminants behind. All rust, oils, and paints must be ground or wiped away prior to welding—failure to do so will lead to a failed or weakened weld.

Once the piece is in place, preheating the weld area may be necessary. Preheating is done to minimize shrinkage stresses, and minimize distortion; all of which might cause cracking when an extremely hot welding arc is applied to cold steel. Preheating is typically required on all material thicknesses when the carbon content of mild steel exceeds .40 percent. Consult your material supplier for specific material/process requirements.

To preheat, an oxy-fuel torch outfitted with a special “rosebud” tip to widen the flame is recommended. Preheating temperatures vary based on the material to be welded. A temp stick (or heat crayon) can be used to gauge the temperature as it changes. Temp sticks come in various temperature values and, when applied to material being heated, will change color when the goal temperature is reached. Again, consult your material supplier for specific material/process requirements.

Stick Welding Recommendations

Bringing all these points together while welding may seem like a lot to think about, but it becomes second nature with practice. These tips are relevant whether you’re repairing a piece of equipment or working on another Stick application.

Current setting: The correct current, or amperage, setting primarily depends on the diameter and type of electrode selected. For example, a 1/8 in. 6010 electrode runs well from 75 to 125 amps, while a 5/32 in. 7018 electrode welds at currents up to 220 amps. The side of the electrode box usually indicates operating ranges. Select amperage based on the material’s thickness, welding position (about 15 percent less heat for vertical and overhead work compared to a flat weld) and observation of the finished weld. Most new welding machines have a permanent label that recommends amperage settings for a variety of electrodes and material thicknesses.

Length of arc: The correct arc length varies with each electrode and application. As a good starting point, arc length should not exceed the diameter of the metal portion (core) of the electrode. Holding the electrode too closely decreases welding voltage. This creates an erratic arc that may extinguish itself or cause the electrode to freeze to the material, as well as produces a weld bead with a high crown. Excessively long arcs (too much voltage) produce spatter, low deposition rates, undercuts and even porosity.

Many beginners weld with too long of an arc, so they produce rough beads with lots of spatter. A little practice will show you that a tight, controlled arc length improves bead appearance, creates a narrower bead and minimizes spatter.

Angle of travel: Stick welding in the flat, horizontal and overhead position uses a “drag” or “backhand” welding technique. Hold the electrode perpendicular to the joint and tilt the top of the electrode in the direction of travel approximately 5 to 15 degrees. For welding vertical up, use a “push” or “forehand” technique and tilt the top of the electrode 15 degrees away from the direction of travel.

Manipulation: Each welder manipulates or weaves the electrode in a unique style. Develop your own style by observing others, practicing and creating a method that produces good results for you. Note that on material 1/4 in. and thinner, weaving the electrode typically creates a bead that is wider than necessary. In many instances, plain, straight-ahead travel works fine.

To create a wider bead on thicker material, manipulate the electrode from side to side creating a continuous series of partially overlapping circles, or in a “Z,” semi-circle or stutter-step pattern. Limit side-to-side motion to 2-1/2 times the diameter of the electrode core. To cover a wider area, make multiple passes or “stringer beads.”

When welding vertical up, focus on welding the sides of the joint and the middle will take care of itself. Pause slightly at the side to allow the weld puddle to catch up and to ensure solid “tie-in” to the sidewall. If your weld looks like big fish scales, you moved forward too quickly and didn’t wait long enough on the sides.

Speed of travel: The proper travel speed produces a weld bead with the desired contour (or “crown”), width and appearance. Adjust travel speed so that the arc stays within the leading one-third of the weld pool. Slow travel speeds produce a wide, convex bead. Excessively high travel speeds also decrease penetration, create a narrower and highly crowned bead.

A few last words of advice. Always remember that you need a good view of the weld puddle. Otherwise, you can’t ensure you’re welding in the joint, keeping the arc on the leading edge of the puddle and using the right amount of heat (you can actually see a puddle with too much heat will roll out of the joint). For the best view, keep your head off to the side and out of the smoke so you can easily see the puddle.

Basic elements to improve results

For many people, especially those who are new to it or perhaps don’t weld every day, stick welding, otherwise known as shielded metal arc welding (SMAW), is one of the more difficult processes to learn. Experienced welders who can pick up a stinger, pop an electrode in and lay down great welds time after time can inspire great awe in the rest of us. They make it look easy.

The rest of us may struggle with it, though. And we don’t have to, not if we pay attention to five basic elements of our technique: current setting, length of arc, angle of electrode, manipulation of electrode and speed of travel — or CLAMS, for short. Properly addressing these five basic areas can improve your results.

Prepare

While stick welding may be the most forgiving process on dirty or rusty metal, don’t use that as an excuse for not properly cleaning the material. Use a wire brush or grinder to remove dirt, grime or rust from the area to be welded. Ignoring these steps hurt your chances to make a good weld the first time. Unclean conditions can lead to cracking, porosity, lack of fusion or inclusions. While you’re at it, make sure you have a clean spot for the work clamp. A good, solid electrical connection is important to maintain arc quality.

Position yourself so you have a good view of the weld puddle. For the best view, keep your head off to the side and out of the weld fumes to ensure you’re welding in the joint and keeping the arc on the leading edge of the puddle. Make sure your stance allows you to comfortably support and manipulate the electrode.

CLAMS

Bringing all the CLAMS points (current setting, length of arc, angle of electrode, manipulation of the electrode, and speed of travel) together may seem like a lot to think about while welding, but it becomes second nature with practice. Don’t get discouraged! There is a learning curve with stick welding, which many believe got its name because when learning how to weld, everyone sticks the electrode to the workpiece.

Current setting: The electrode you select will determine whether your machine should be set up in DC positive, DC negative or AC. Make sure you have it set correctly for your application. (Electrode positive provides about 10 percent more penetration at a given amperage than AC, while DC straight polarity, electrode negative, welds thinner metals better.) The correct amperage setting primarily depends on the diameter and type of electrode you select. The electrode manufacturer usually indicates the electrode’s operating ranges on the box or enclosed materials. Select your amperage based on the electrode (a general rule of thumb is 1 amp for each .001-inch of electrode diameter), welding position (about 15 percent less heat for overhead work compared to a flat weld), and visual inspection of the finished weld. Adjust your welder by 5 to 10 amps at a time, until the ideal setting is reached.

Unless the electrode manufacturer states otherwise, use 1 amp for each .001-inch of electrode diameter. Here a 1/8-inch. (.125 inch) electrode is used, so the operator starts at 125 amps. He’ll then adjust in 5 to 10-amp increments, if necessary to find the optimal setting for his technique and application.

If your amperage is too low, your electrode will be especially sticky when striking an arc, your arc will keep going out while maintaining the correct arc length or the arc will stutter.

This weld is a result of too little current. If you’re welding with amperage set too low, your electrode will be especially sticky when striking an arc, the arc will keep going out while maintaining the correct arc length or the arc will stutter.

Once you get an arc going, if the puddle is excessively fluid and hard to control, your electrode chars when it’s only half gone, or the arc sounds louder than normal, your amperage might be set too high. Too much heat can also negatively affect the electrode’s flux properties.

The weld is the result of too much current. When the amperage is set too high, the puddle will be excessively fluid and hard to control. This can lead to excess spatter and higher potential for undercut. In addition, the electrode will become hot — perhaps hot enough to glow toward the end of the weld—which can adversely affect the shielding properties of the flux.

A sign of too much current is when the electrode becomes hot enough to glow.

Length of arc: The correct arc length varies with each electrode and application. As a good starting point, arc length should not exceed the diameter of the metal portion (core) of the electrode. For example, an 1/8-inch 6010 electrode is held about 1/8 inch off the base material.

Length of arc: The optimal arc length, or distance between electrode and puddle, is the same as the diameter of the electrode (the actual metal part within the flux covering). Holding the electrode too closely to the joint decreases welding voltage, which creates an erratic arc that may extinguish itself or cause the electrode to freeze faster and produces a weld bead with a high crown.

An arc length that is too short will create greater potential for the electrode sticking to the base material.

Excessively long arcs (too much voltage) produce spatter, low deposition rates, undercuts and often leaves porosity.

Too long of an arc length will create excess spatter in the weld joint. There is also a high potential for undercut.

When first attempting to stick weld, it seems natural to use too long of an arc, possibly to help get a better view of the arc and puddle. If you have trouble seeing, move your head, rather than lengthening the arc. Start by finding a good body position that gives you an adequate view of the puddle, while also allowing you to stabilize and manipulate the electrode. A little practice will show you that a tight, controlled arc length improves bead appearance, creates a narrower bead and minimizes spatter.

Angle of travel: Stick welding in the flat, horizontal and overhead positions uses a drag or backhand welding technique. Hold the electrode perpendicular to the joint, and then tilt the top in the direction of travel approximately 5 to 15 degrees. For welding vertical up, use a push or forehand technique and tilt the top of the electrode 0 to 15 degrees away from the direction of travel.

Angle of travel. When welding from left to right, maintain a 0 to 15-degree angle tilted towards the direction of travel. This is known as the drag or backhand technique.

Manipulation of electrode: Each welder manipulates the electrode a little differently. Develop your own style by observing others, practicing and noting which techniques produce the best results. Note that on material 1/4 inch and thinner, weaving the electrode is typically not needed because the bead will be wider than necessary. In many instances a straight bead is all that’s needed.

To create a wider bead on thicker material, manipulate the electrode from side to side, creating a continuous series of partially overlapping circles in a ‘Z,’ semi-circle or stutter-step pattern. Limit side-to-side motion to two times the diameter of the electrode core. To cover a wider area, make multiple passes or use stringer beads.

Here the welder uses a semi-circular motion to create a wider bead with a stacked dimes appearance. For thinner welds, a straight line bead may be sufficient.

When welding vertical up, if you focus on welding the sides of the joint, the middle will take care of itself. Move across the middle of the joint slowly enough so that the weld puddle can catch up, and pause slightly at the sides to ensure solid tie-in to the sidewall. If your weld looks like fish scales, you moved forward too quickly and didn’t hold long enough on the sides.

Speed of travel: Your travel speed should allow you to keep the arc in the leading one-third of the weld pool.

To establish the optimal travel speed, first establish a weld puddle of the desired diameter, and then move at a speed that keeps you in the leading one-third of the puddle. If you travel too slowly, the heat will be directed into the puddle and not into the weld, leading to cold lap or poor fusion. 

Traveling too slowly produces a wide, convex bead with shallow penetration and the possibility of cold-lapping, where the weld appears to be simply sitting on the surface of the material.

Too slow of a travel speed will create a bead that has too much weld deposit, which can lead to cold-lap. This can result in insufficient penetration in those areas. Traveling too slowly can also focus the heat into the puddle and not into the base material. 

Excessively fast travel speeds also decrease penetration, create a narrower and/or highly crowned bead, and possibly underfill or undercut, which is when the area outside of the weld is concave or recessed. Note toward the end of the bead in the image below how the bead appears inconsistent as if the puddle were trying to keep up.

Traveling too fast will create a thinner/undersized bead that will have more of a V-shaped ripple effect in the puddle rather than a nice U-shaped, or stacked dimes, effect.

These tips, along with practice and patience, will get you headed in the right direction to improve your stick welding technique.

Basic elements to improve results

For many people, especially those who are new to it or perhaps don’t weld every day, stick welding, otherwise known as shielded metal arc welding (SMAW), is one of the more difficult processes to learn. Experienced welders who can pick up a stinger, pop an electrode in and lay down great welds time after time can inspire great awe in the rest of us. They make it look easy.

The rest of us may struggle with it, though. And we don’t have to, not if we pay attention to five basic elements of our technique: current setting, length of arc, angle of electrode, manipulation of electrode and speed of travel — or CLAMS, for short. Properly addressing these five basic areas can improve your results.

Prepare

While stick welding may be the most forgiving process on dirty or rusty metal, don’t use that as an excuse for not properly cleaning the material. Use a wire brush or grinder to remove dirt, grime or rust from the area to be welded. Ignoring these steps hurt your chances to make a good weld the first time. Unclean conditions can lead to cracking, porosity, lack of fusion or inclusions. While you’re at it, make sure you have a clean spot for the work clamp. A good, solid electrical connection is important to maintain arc quality.

Position yourself so you have a good view of the weld puddle. For the best view, keep your head off to the side and out of the weld fumes to ensure you’re welding in the joint and keeping the arc on the leading edge of the puddle. Make sure your stance allows you to comfortably support and manipulate the electrode.

CLAMS

Bringing all the CLAMS points (current setting, length of arc, angle of electrode, manipulation of the electrode, and speed of travel) together may seem like a lot to think about while welding, but it becomes second nature with practice. Don’t get discouraged! There is a learning curve with stick welding, which many believe got its name because when learning how to weld, everyone sticks the electrode to the workpiece.

Current setting: The electrode you select will determine whether your machine should be set up in DC positive, DC negative or AC. Make sure you have it set correctly for your application. (Electrode positive provides about 10 percent more penetration at a given amperage than AC, while DC straight polarity, electrode negative, welds thinner metals better.) The correct amperage setting primarily depends on the diameter and type of electrode you select. The electrode manufacturer usually indicates the electrode’s operating ranges on the box or enclosed materials. Select your amperage based on the electrode (a general rule of thumb is 1 amp for each .001-inch of electrode diameter), welding position (about 15 percent less heat for overhead work compared to a flat weld), and visual inspection of the finished weld. Adjust your welder by 5 to 10 amps at a time, until the ideal setting is reached.

Unless the electrode manufacturer states otherwise, use 1 amp for each .001-inch of electrode diameter. Here a 1/8-inch. (.125 inch) electrode is used, so the operator starts at 125 amps. He’ll then adjust in 5 to 10-amp increments, if necessary to find the optimal setting for his technique and application.

If your amperage is too low, your electrode will be especially sticky when striking an arc, your arc will keep going out while maintaining the correct arc length or the arc will stutter.

This weld is a result of too little current. If you’re welding with amperage set too low, your electrode will be especially sticky when striking an arc, the arc will keep going out while maintaining the correct arc length or the arc will stutter.

Once you get an arc going, if the puddle is excessively fluid and hard to control, your electrode chars when it’s only half gone, or the arc sounds louder than normal, your amperage might be set too high. Too much heat can also negatively affect the electrode’s flux properties.

The weld is the result of too much current. When the amperage is set too high, the puddle will be excessively fluid and hard to control. This can lead to excess spatter and higher potential for undercut. In addition, the electrode will become hot — perhaps hot enough to glow toward the end of the weld—which can adversely affect the shielding properties of the flux.

A sign of too much current is when the electrode becomes hot enough to glow.

Length of arc: The correct arc length varies with each electrode and application. As a good starting point, arc length should not exceed the diameter of the metal portion (core) of the electrode. For example, an 1/8-inch 6010 electrode is held about 1/8 inch off the base material.

Length of arc: The optimal arc length, or distance between electrode and puddle, is the same as the diameter of the electrode (the actual metal part within the flux covering). Holding the electrode too closely to the joint decreases welding voltage, which creates an erratic arc that may extinguish itself or cause the electrode to freeze faster and produces a weld bead with a high crown.

An arc length that is too short will create greater potential for the electrode sticking to the base material.

Excessively long arcs (too much voltage) produce spatter, low deposition rates, undercuts and often leaves porosity.

Too long of an arc length will create excess spatter in the weld joint. There is also a high potential for undercut.

When first attempting to stick weld, it seems natural to use too long of an arc, possibly to help get a better view of the arc and puddle. If you have trouble seeing, move your head, rather than lengthening the arc. Start by finding a good body position that gives you an adequate view of the puddle, while also allowing you to stabilize and manipulate the electrode. A little practice will show you that a tight, controlled arc length improves bead appearance, creates a narrower bead and minimizes spatter.

Angle of travel: Stick welding in the flat, horizontal and overhead positions uses a drag or backhand welding technique. Hold the electrode perpendicular to the joint, and then tilt the top in the direction of travel approximately 5 to 15 degrees. For welding vertical up, use a push or forehand technique and tilt the top of the electrode 0 to 15 degrees away from the direction of travel.

Angle of travel. When welding from left to right, maintain a 0 to 15-degree angle tilted towards the direction of travel. This is known as the drag or backhand technique.

Manipulation of electrode: Each welder manipulates the electrode a little differently. Develop your own style by observing others, practicing and noting which techniques produce the best results. Note that on material 1/4 inch and thinner, weaving the electrode is typically not needed because the bead will be wider than necessary. In many instances a straight bead is all that’s needed.

To create a wider bead on thicker material, manipulate the electrode from side to side, creating a continuous series of partially overlapping circles in a ‘Z,’ semi-circle or stutter-step pattern. Limit side-to-side motion to two times the diameter of the electrode core. To cover a wider area, make multiple passes or use stringer beads.

Here the welder uses a semi-circular motion to create a wider bead with a stacked dimes appearance. For thinner welds, a straight line bead may be sufficient.

When welding vertical up, if you focus on welding the sides of the joint, the middle will take care of itself. Move across the middle of the joint slowly enough so that the weld puddle can catch up, and pause slightly at the sides to ensure solid tie-in to the sidewall. If your weld looks like fish scales, you moved forward too quickly and didn’t hold long enough on the sides.

Speed of travel: Your travel speed should allow you to keep the arc in the leading one-third of the weld pool.

To establish the optimal travel speed, first establish a weld puddle of the desired diameter, and then move at a speed that keeps you in the leading one-third of the puddle. If you travel too slowly, the heat will be directed into the puddle and not into the weld, leading to cold lap or poor fusion. 

Traveling too slowly produces a wide, convex bead with shallow penetration and the possibility of cold-lapping, where the weld appears to be simply sitting on the surface of the material.

Too slow of a travel speed will create a bead that has too much weld deposit, which can lead to cold-lap. This can result in insufficient penetration in those areas. Traveling too slowly can also focus the heat into the puddle and not into the base material. 

Excessively fast travel speeds also decrease penetration, create a narrower and/or highly crowned bead, and possibly underfill or undercut, which is when the area outside of the weld is concave or recessed. Note toward the end of the bead in the image below how the bead appears inconsistent as if the puddle were trying to keep up.

Traveling too fast will create a thinner/undersized bead that will have more of a V-shaped ripple effect in the puddle rather than a nice U-shaped, or stacked dimes, effect.

These tips, along with practice and patience, will get you headed in the right direction to improve your stick welding technique.